Cutting list for planter
All this timber is available from you local B&Q.
All this timber apart from the T&G is tanalised sawn timber

12 lengths of 305mm of 22 by 50mm to make up the frame and 4 parts of the legs
4 lengths of 305mm of 22 by 25mm the other 4 parts for the legs.
5 lengths of 305mm of 22 by 50mm for bottom slats
4 lengths of (mitre these as you cut them it saves timber) 280mm inside measurement of 18mm by 75mm
4 lengths of 325mm of 7.5 by 95mm T&G for first 2 opposite sides
4 lengths of 305mm of 7.5 by 95mm T&G for other 2 sides.

 

Making the Planter.

You should be able to complete this planter in an afternoon so why not spend all day and make two.

The total cost for one planter is approx £4.50.

You will need 3 lengths of 2.4 metres 50mm by 22mm tanalised batten, 2 metres of 100mm by 22mm tanalised gravel board and 3 metres of 95mm by 7.5mm T&G cladding.

For a medium sized planter 305mm square is a good size.
Cut the batten into 14 lengths of 305mm, there are 4 that make up the top frame 4 for the bottom frame and six that make up the legs.

2 of these pieces need to be cut down the middle lengthways so that you end up with 4 pieces depending on your saw kerf approx 23mm by 22mm by 305mm long.
The next step is to join these four pieces to the other four leg pieces to make an L shaped leg (see photo1). Nail these together with 40mm wire nails three spread along the length should be ample.

Now you should have four corner pieces (legs), the next step is to make the top and bottom frames. To keep this square see photo 2, if you put the frames together this way they will be square and not oblong, use the 40mm wire nails again one in the middle will suffice its going to be screwed through later.

Lay one of the frames on a level surface and take a leg piece and attach this to the frame (see photo 3). All these fixings should be drilled and countersunk, countersink by about 6mm this will allow the screw to pass through one piece on the corner and go into the end of the other piece, 50mm No 8 screws should be used, 1 on each side of each corner. This will be the top of the planter.
When you have fixed all the four legs to the top frame you are ready to attach the bottom frame.see photo 4 Take 2 pieces of scrap T&G and cut the tongue off of 1 piece join these together and use this to set the correct distance between the two frames. Allow a few millimetres gap to allow the T&G to swell a bit

Time to cut the T&G the first two opposite sides will be 325mm long and the other two opposite sides will be 305mm long. In all you need 8 pieces 2 for each side. Cut the tongue off of one piece for each side, you can easily plane this off.

Using the longer pieces fix two opposite sides first, (the T&G is fitted from the inside) make sure the groove is towards the bottom. Fix these using 1 inch wire nails you don't need to many, the compost will hold them in. Then fix the other 2 opposite sides.

The next step is to fix the bottom slats in place. These are fitted on the inside of the planter and consists of 5 lengths of 305mm of the same batten used for the framework, space these apart by about 6mm, drill a pilot hole and fix into place with one 40mm No 8 screw each end, preferably plated screws they are going to get wet, try not to let the screwdriver slip in the head of the screw because this will take the plating off the screw.

Before the mitred top is put into place it is a good idea to line the planter with a medium gauge polythene, too thick and it is hard to get into the corners. Leave enough to come over the top edge then the mitred top will hold it in place.
Don't forget to make drainage holes in the bottom or your plants will drown.

Photo 6. The Top edge detail is made from 22mm by 100mm tanalised gravel board sawn and planed to approx 18mm by 75mm, this measurement is not terribly important and you could if you wanted just use it as it comes.
Measure along the inside edge of one side and deduct about 6mm (this will allow a slight overhang to the inside of the planter), this looks better and helps to hide the edge of the polythene liner. Use this measurement to cut the mitres, drill and countersink and screw the top into place, I usually take a small block plane and chamfer the edges of the top over slightly.

Use some clear preserver on the T&G, its best to do this before you put the panels in also on the bottom of the legs.

Stain , varnish or paint not forgetting to do the cut ends that will be in contact with the ground, you could use some round-headed upholsterers nails in the bottom of the legs this will keep them clear of the ground.

I hope you have a lot of fun making these for your friends family and neighbours.
If anybody wishes to contact me regarding this project my email is gd@segmentedturning.co.uk