This project involves making rings that get gradualy bigger towards the top to enable a tapered shape to be turned. The measurements I used for the segments are given below, you can alter these to whatever size you want. The timber I used for this vase was very slightly spalted sycamore and for the dark wood I used sapele. the dimension of the timber was 25mm thick and about 35mm wide apart from the bottom ring which was about 75mm wide, you can get this width by measuring the radius of the bottom ring.

Starting from the bottom the segment sizes are

(Ring 1) 2 cm 4 dark segments and 12 lignt colour segments

(ring 2) 23mm 8 dark segments and 8 light segments

(Ring 3) 25mm 12 dark and 4 light segments

(ring 4) 27mm 8 dark and 8 light segments

(ring 5) 29mm 4 dark and 12 light

(ring 6) 31mm 8 dark and 8 light

(ring 7) 33mm 12 dark and 4 light

(ring 8) 35mm 8 dark and 8 light

(ring 9) 37mm 4 dark and 12 light

(ring10) this is the very bottom ring and should be cut from wider material so that the segments are a full triangle shape. 23mm, I used sycamore for the base but whatever you have will be fine.

Picture 6 shows the layout for the blocks in each ring. you dont have to copy this though you could design you own pattern.

I use a (picture 1) jig that I made for cutting the segments on my bandsaw, I have a very fine blade that hardly leaves any marks at all, sometimes I dont even have to sand the segments. If you do decide that the segments need sanding you have to be very careful not to alter the angle while sanding. The angle for cutting these segments is 11.25 degrees, it is best to make a few test rings in cheaper pine to get this angle set exactly right. I made 4 test rings to get my jig right and it will not be set to any other angle now, I shall just use it for 16 segment rings and make another for any other angle that I need to cut.

When glueing up the rings I allways trial fit the ring and clamp it just to make sure there are no gaps, if there are I sand from the top or the bottom of the segment depending on where the gaps are. The clamps I use when glueing up are just large jubilee clips I find these are excellent. Picture 4.

When you have all the rings glued together they will probably need sanding flat ( picture 5) I use a belt sander to do this now but I did use a rotary sander before I got my belt sander, Check on a flat surface that the rings are flat.

Picture 6 shows all the rings sanded flat and round, I like to round the rings off it makes them easier to line up when gluing them together.

Glue the rings together, I did use to do this using rudimentary clamping devices but have now made myself a proper ring press ( see new additions on home page) however I had not yet made it when I made this vase. When the rings have glue on them they do tend to slide around when clamping together so you might need to realign the rings whilst clamping, my new press eliminates this and I have succesfully glued 4 rings at the same time with no movement at all.

when all the rings are glued together I then glue a piece of plywood to the top layer so that I can use my screw chuck to turn the outside of the vase. When I have turned the outside I turn to the bottom. On this vase I provided support whilst turning the bottom. I first drill and plug the bottom to fill any hole in the centre where the segment might not have quite met in the middle, Then I turn a dovetail reccess in the bottom to fit my 50mm dovetail jaws.

Turn the vase around so that it is mounted by the dovetail housing, I provided support again whilst I finished off the inside Picture 10.

Sand the whole thing I start with 120 then 180 then 240 then 320grit this gives a lovely finish, I then wax with a carnuba beeswax mixture which give a lovely sheen to things when buffed.

See the finished thing on my gallery page item No 1026. I love it.